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 Post Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:19 pm 
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I like it! I should have thought of that. I was too wrapped up in trying to duplicate the Tri-Nozzel set-up of the Monster Hog.
Does the overall length allow it to fit in the box without getting in the way of loading?
Post a picture if you can.
Thanks
mdvga


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 Post Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:57 am 
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Mdvga
Im sorry I didnt get back to you sooner but I wanted to check on my figures first,if Im right your header box is only 9 3/4 inches wide .Ok my system is 9 1/2inches wide flange to flange and only 4 1/2 inches into the header box without the pipes,The Tee is called a Test Tee with threads,it cones in all sizes, then I use two street 90s, that leaves the middle open. Also you can ajust the pipes to any lenght that you want. Im sorry but ,I cant do pictures yet,my Grand Kids know more about this silly machine then I do. but Im determened to learn. Also there is another way to do this,put all the tees and fittings outside of the header box and just run the water pipes in, Its not as nice looking but it will work. I was looking at GH Facebook and saw your sluice, really a nice job, everything fit great and it was nicely done. Also they had a picture of the first Super Hog, it had only two waterpipes or jets, and its 16 inches wide! As for my header box its 12 x24 inches so I have lots of room.
My HB wont be done for a little while, I just ordered the alum to be bent last week.My brake wont handle .080 and I wanted it to be able to take the wear and tear. Anyways I get to do all the fun stuff, like putting on the legs and installing the GH mats .
Good Luck with all your projects.
From Steve in N E OHIO
Best Wishes and Good Health


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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:28 pm 
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Location: Cape Coral FL
:lol: Steve, I feel your pain about the bending of the aluminum. My brake can do the 0.125 aluminum, however, it can only bend up to 36" and the main body of my dredge is a little over 7 foot in total length. So for now I have to trust a guy up the road to take it into work with him and I can only hope that he makes the bends accurately based on the drawing I gave him. I will say though, that will be the first and last time I use that thick of a sheet. My other projects are currently being made from 0.063 5052 sheeting, so that shouldn't be nearly as difficult to work with.

-Chris

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:10 pm 
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Location: Odessa, Texas
one thing I did was put a piece of flat aluminium around the ends where the water dumps from one tray to the next. I know its only surface water but plan on using it as recirculating system in NM and dont want water splashing out


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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:12 pm 
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:roll: ok, gotta make my pics smaller

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 Post Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 12:52 pm 
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How do you find (results) the performance of the Tri-Nozzel for breaking up clay? We got a lot of clay mixed in our river gravel bars and I'm considering that kind of approach. Just got my GoldHog gear so going to try it as is for now and will see how it does without any mods.

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Chevyman_76


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 Post Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 3:23 pm 
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The Tri-nozzle didn't work for me, so I went to a Trommel to break up the clay better, but to no avail.
The only thing I have found that really breaks it up is a brass fire nozzle directed into a feeder box.
It tears it up, but is tough to manage (Kept getting dirty looks from my crew as they got "splashed").
The nozzle I used went from a 2" hose connection to a 1/2" outlet and is about 14" long. My next attempt was with a Fire Nozzle that went from 1-1/2" down to 1-3/8" from a 2" hose.
It does a pretty good job on mud and dirt clods, but won't break up the clay.
I'm running a 9400 gph, 2" pump into the nozzle so there's lots of pressure from the nozzle...just like a fire hose.
However, neither nozzle is appropriate for a Highbanker crash box.
We even discussed converting a rotor tiller to mechanically chop up the clay, or maybe using Hot Water, or...No joy so far.
I suggest you process some clay balls down to a pannable consistency and see if there is any gold any it.
Doc doesn't seem to bother with them as there apparently is little or no gold in the clay at GNG.
This is an age old problem and has been around for a long time, so I don't feel too bad about not being able to solve it.
mdvga


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 Post Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 3:25 pm 
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PC, I like the splash guard you out on there. Good idea. Did you also seal it with water seal stuff?
mdvga


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 Post Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:50 am 
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Location: South Australia
I have set up my entire Gold Hog operation with the cam & lock quick-hitch system ... works brilliantly!!!

We have amazing clay here in Australia ... so I think I might make "a set of grizzly bars" to go inside of the box to hold the clay a little longer while the water jet does its job ... even if that mean shortening the sloping plate inside the crash box.

Anyone got any other ideas?

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 Post Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:12 pm 
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mdvga wrote:
PC, I like the splash guard you out on there. Good idea. Did you also seal it with water seal stuff?
mdvga

I ran a bead of silicone then riveted the plate to the unit. As I said, this is used mainly in the high desert of NM where theres no water so recycling and SAVING as much as possible is a must. I still run it with a gas- 2 inch Champion pump. I run it just above idle and it puts about 4500 GPH , I made a few other mods and will get some pics soon.
Michael

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